Drive the legendary Mississippi backroads between Natchez and Vicksburg to discover ancient ruins, explore a ghost town, and eat the world’s best fried chicken!
This post is the third installment of a 6-part Mississippi Road Trip series. The first segment entitled How My Books Landed in the de Grummond Collection at USM details the backstory of my drive from Central Florida to Hattiesburg. On the second leg of my journey I traveled to Historical Natchez, Mississippi, where I toured 4 of this city’s grand antebellum homes. In Part 4 I learned How to Spend 36 Hours in Vicksburg, Mississippi and The Best Way to Visit Vicksburg National Military Park. And finally, I visited highlights from several Civil Rights and Literary Driving Tours in Jackson, Mississippi.
Then, it was time to leave the main highways and embark on the most anticipated part of my itinerary. I could hardly wait to explore the legendary Mississippi backroads between Natchez and Vicksburg. I was chomping at the bit, and those backroads did not disappoint . . . .
Table of Contents
- 1 The Natchez Trace Parkway
- 2 The Old Country Store
- 3 Rodney
- 4 A Brief History of Rodney, Mississippi
- 5 Scenes from Rodney
- 6 Windsor Ruins
- 7 A Brief History of Windsor Ruins
- 8 Windsor Ruins from Every Angle
- 9 Map It!
- 10 We Would Love to Hear From You
- 11 Pin this Post!
- 12 A Southern Mississippi Road Trip Series
- 13 Helpful Links
The Natchez Trace Parkway
Leaving Longwood mansion, I headed toward the southern terminus of the Natchez Trace Parkway to begin my drive north to Vicksburg. But even then, I knew the Parkway would only take me so far, because the destinations on my mental itinerary could not be found on the main roads.
The Natchez Trace Parkway is a scenic 2-lane roadway that follows the route of the historic Natchez Trace, an ancient migratory path for American Bison. The path evolved as a road traveled by Native Americans, traders, settlers, soldiers, and other historical figures who contributed to the growth of the American nation. In 1939, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) began construction on the 444-mile long road through Mississippi, Alabama, and Tennessee under the direction of the National Park Service. Although most of the Parkway was completed early on, the remaining unfinished segments finally reached completion in 2005.
Even on an overcast mid-winter day, my drive on the Parkway was scenic and surprisingly reminiscent of the mountainous Blue Ridge Parkway. I encountered only a few vehicles on this southernmost segment, making me enjoy the ride even more. As a lover of America’s National Scenic Byways, I was excited at the opportunity to drive this portion of the Parkway, even though it left me a bit unfulfilled at not being able to drive the entire length from Natchez to Nashville.
But it was nearing lunchtime, and I knew the Lorman exit at milepost 30 was just ahead.
Note: If you are planning to drive the full length of the Natchez Trace Parkway, or only a section, be sure to check out the National Park Service site as well as NatchezTraceTravel.com for a wealth of information.
The Old Country Store
I had just learned about the Old Country Store earlier that morning from Ann Watts, GM at the Linden B&B in Natchez. She shared how Mr. Arthur Davis cooked up the world’s best fried chicken and sang to his customers at this restaurant located not far off my scheduled route. Because it sounded like my kind of place, I decided to check it out.
The rusty tin roof, weathered siding, and vintage signs of the Old Country Store gave a rustic welcome as I put the Mountaineer in park. Inside, shelves of flea market decor lined the walls of the long dining room, but the white linen tablecloths made it clear that here, the food was the real star. I piled my plate with vinegar cucumbers, cole slaw, potato salad, black-eyed peas, macaroni & cheese, and a crispy fried chicken breast. A tall glass of sweet iced tea arrived at my table, pulling together my selections from the southern buffet. I spotted Mr. D seated in front of a TV nearby, and I wondered if he might honor me with a serenade, but soon he nodded off and I thought it rude to wake him.
There are many reasons I typically don’t do critical reviews on Backroad Planet, but I know curious readers will want to know my thoughts on whether the fried chicken at the Old Country Store was truly the world’s best. I’ll just say this: I don’t know if Mr. D’s fried chicken was the absolute BEST I’ve ever had, but it definitely hit the spot! If you happen to be driving between Natchez and Vicksburg and are in the mood for an authentic gut-busting all-you-can-eat southern buffet, you can’t go wrong with Mr. D’s restaurant at The Old Country Store.
With my belly full and my spirit of adventure on full tilt, I pulled out on Highway 61. It was time to find the fabled Mississippi ghost town I had longed to see for such a long time.
Rodney
The ghost town of Rodney, Mississippi, first captured my interest when I read Greg Keraghosian’s Mississippi road trip article on Yahoo! My own Mississippi road trip was not in the works at the time of that initial reading, but the intrigue of a surviving Civil War-era ghost town never stopped haunting the place in my mind where wanderlust resides.
I knew finding Rodney could present a challenge because, at the time, the abandoned town itself did not even register on Google maps. Fortunately, the ancient cemetery behind the Presbyterian church did. So, I followed my GPS expecting to leave civilization farther and farther behind, but instead the moving blue arrow on the screen led me to the guardhouse of Alcorn State University. The young attendant was patient and welcoming, as if she had encountered gawkers like me before, and gave me turn-by-turn directions across the university campus for finding the entrance to Rodney Drive.
The brick columns marking the entrance to Rodney Drive were mere cosmetic adornments flanking the gutted dirt road beyond. No matter. Had I found a maintained paved roadway leading to a ghost town, it would have been a disappointment, I dare say.
A Brief History of Rodney, Mississippi
The washboard road wound through the countryside for 4 miles, and then abruptly turned to an untended stretch of asphalt. If my suspicions were confirmed, Rodney lay just ahead.
The Rodney Baptist Church was the first prominent structure to come into view. I scanned the area, apprehensive that somehow I might be trespassing, and a remaining Rodney resident (rumor has it there are three) would emerge from the brush and scold me.
My tight schedule reminded me I could not explore for long. So, I stuffed my trepidation and began a cursory sweep of the structures lining Muddy Bayou Road, peeking in a doorway here, a window there.
Rodney’s two remaining churches were still structurally sound, and I entered them both. Attempts at restoration and maintenance were most evident in the Presbyterian Church. Dedicated in 1832, this brick building had stood the test of time as a steadfast testament to Rodney’s rise and fall. A Union cannonball lodged high on its facade still bore witness to a Sunday morning skirmish in 1863.
I drove slowly up Muddy Bayou Road until I reached a creek spanned by a rustic wooden bridge. Again my apprehension kicked in, but there were no barriers at the crossing and GPS indicated I could reach my next destination by following the road on the other side. I proceeded cautiously across the bridge, and reaching the other side I saw the metal gate blocking access to my planned route. My only option was to turn around, cross the bridge again, and leave town the way I had arrived.
Later, I would learn the story behind the gated road, and soon, so will you.
Scenes from Rodney
As I was leaving Rodney, I suddenly remembered I had not yet located the cemetery, but it would have to wait. I knew somehow, if there was a way, I would return.
I retraced my previous route, crossed the Alcorn University campus, and left by way of an alternate exit. Turning north on MS-552, my attention was already focused on a site I had first seen as a location in a Mississippi motion picture.
Be sure to check out our collaboration with Mississippi photographer Ashleigh Coleman to learn more about Rodney and to see stunning images from a bridal shoot and during a seasonal flood in her photo essay: The Haunting Town of Rodney, Mississippi.
Windsor Ruins
A Brief History of Windsor Ruins
Many of the sites I add to my road trip itineraries are locations I first saw in movies. It is not uncommon for me to open my iPhone IMDB app while watching a movie and research the location of some historical or scenic site that has just captured my interest. Although I had never learned the name of the location, the memorable scene from Ghosts of Mississippi shot at Windsor Ruins had never left me. Rob Reiner’s 1996 film tells the moving story of how the murderer of Civil Rights leader Medgar Evers was finally brought to justice. Little did I know, as I walked the grounds at Windsor Ruins, that before my Mississippi road trip came to an end, I would visit another location from the same motion picture . . . the home of Medgar Evers himself.
Note: Almost 40 years earlier, a scene from Raintree County starring Elizabeth Taylor and Montgomery Clift was also shot on location at Windsor Ruins.
Movie Poster Credits: MGM/Castle Rock Entertainment
Casually walking the perimeter of the ruins, one can envision the former grandeur that was Windsor Mansion. I was so enthralled that I could not stop taking pictures from every possible angle. I will impose my obsession upon you in the gallery below.
If ever a home had “good bones,” the Windsor Mansion did.
Windsor Ruins from Every Angle
I got back on the winding two-lane and headed north. I forced myself not to stop when, a few miles up the road, I passed through yet another historical town. Port Gibson would have to wait for another day.
Looking back, I must say that driving the Mississippi backroads between Natchez and Vicksburg was one of my most memorable day trip adventures ever!
Map It!
We Would Love to Hear From You
Jerry and I enjoy dialogue with our readers, especially when they share insider tips and little-known stories from their road trip destinations around the world. Have you discovered an intriguing historical site while traveling the Mississippi backroads? We invite you to leave your comments and questions below, and we always respond!
Pin this Post!
A Southern Mississippi Road Trip Series
Part 1: How My Books Landed in the de Grummond Collection at USM
Part 2: Visit Historical Natchez, Mississippi
Part 4: How to Spend 36 Hours in Vicksburg, Mississippi
Part 5: The Best Way to Visit Vicksburg National Military Park
Part 6: Civil Rights and Literary Driving Tours in Jackson, Mississippi
Bonus: The Haunting Town of Rodney, Mississippi
Helpful Links
The Haunting Town of Rodney, Mississippi: A Photo Essay
NPS Brochure: Windsor Ruins (PDF)
I’m absolutely intrigued and plan on visiting all these spectacular places myself! Your images are beautiful and surreal.
Thanks for your kind words, Shelly! Great to know there are likeminded travelers out there.
I would really love to see more of this beautiful country. But I have to be very honest as a black man I’m scared shitless to travel the backroads of Mississippi.
Your comment saddens me, Marvin, but I honor you for sharing your truth. At Backroad Planet we value the input of our readers, and your voice must be heard. Mississippi is my favorite roadtripping state, but I cannot and will not deny that we still have a long way to go in the struggle for freedom and equality for all people.
Marvin- as a white woman of a certain age, I’m safer than you, I am sorry to say, but backroads of Mississippi make me more than a little nervous. Stories of the treatment of outsiders keep me to main roads. I’m sorry as well.
Can the drive to Rodney be made on a motorcycle? I’ve been to the Old Country Store before and love that place; but would love to visit the town of Rodney.
Hi Angela! The road between Alcorn State University and Rodney is a dirt road, but I imagine it would be passable for an experienced motorcyclist.
If you ever get back to the southwest Mississippi area, you should visit the small town of Woodville. It has a beautiful downtown with old buildings and an early 1900’s pharmacy. Just east of Woodville is the Rosemont plantation, the boyhood home of Jefferson Davis.
Also nearby is the town of Liberty, also with an old pharmacy opened in 1903. East of Liberty is the small community of East Fork. The home and museum of Jerry Clower.
Thanks for sharing this locations, Robert! Mississippi is my favorite roadtripping state, so there is a good chance I will be back in the area eventually. Speaking of Jefferson Davis, I have been to the spot on the steps of the Alabama capitol building in Montgomery where he was sworn in as president of the Confederacy and also to his capture site in South Georgia.
Thank you so much for posting this! My husband, my sister, and I just took a weekend trip from central Louisiana after reading your blog! We drove up the Natchez Trace, found the abandoned town of Rodney, had lunch at the Old Country Store, and even got to meet Mr. D himself! We then stopped off to visit the Windsor Ruins on our final trek to Vicksburg.
We had a great trip, thanks to your great information!
Thanks Again!
Hi Barbara! How awesome that you got to experience the southernmost segment of the Natchez Trace Parkway and so many Mississippi backroad sites between Natchez and Vicksburg! Thanks for the heads-up that our itinerary was beneficial in helping you plan your road trip. The only way we learn our content is on target is when readers like you let us know. Here’s to many more backroad adventures!
Mr Blount, I’m so sorry you didn’t have time to explore Port Gibson during your road trip. I work at Grand Gulf State Park, which is just off of Hwy 61 South, close to Port Gibson. We have a Civil War museum and quite a bit of memorabilia from that era. We also have a quaint little church that was moved here from Rodney, MS. We would love to visit with you and show you around the park, please keep us in mind when you return to this area. I enjoyed reading about your journey. Have a great day!!
Hi Shelley, and thanks for your kind invitation! Mississippi is my favorite roadtripping state, and you can bet Port Gibson is still on my list. Hopefully, I will make it there before too long, and I will be sure to look you up!
Please let me know the mileage backroads from Vicksburg, MS to Natchez, MS. Is the map shown on the website the only directions available? Thanks.
Including all the detours along the way, Constance, the drive from Natchez to Vicksburg is roughly 100 miles. I am not sure what you mean by “the only directions available.” Are you needing turn-by-turn written directions? If so, please let me know, and I will see what I can do.
Yes Howard, turn by turn written directions would be wonderful.
Sure thing, Constance! I will email them to you.
We’re headed for a road trip in October from our home in Peoria IL to Shiloh, Vicksburg, Natchez and back home. Is there any way we can purchase a printed copy of this adventure, esp. Vicksburg to Natchez?
Hi Constance! Thanks for your inquiry regarding the purchase of printed content from Backroad Planet. At this time we do not offer printed materials, but you are free to print the content directly from the website to use as a guide for your upcoming road trip. Sounds like you are planning a wonderful adventure. We would love to hear a report from your trip in the Backroad Planet Travel Community upon your return!
Taking this drive tomorrow. Need to get out of the house
You will love it, Ashley! Let us know how it goes. 🙂
Wow what a pleasant surprise to see the bridal shoot at Rodney and your blog and Windsor Ruins.. It has been many years ago that I visited both and remember those ruins so very well. How could you ever forget their majesty… i feel sure you were told, the original steps had been moved to the campus of Alcorn and I would imagine they are still there. I remember getting out of the car and walking on the parts of the Old Trace and being carried back in time, with my imagination of what had happened on the old road. If I remember correctly. a black and white drawing of what was thought to be the actual house was found somewhere up North and had been drawn by a Union Soldier. I don’t know if that was ever proven or where it might be now as I am no longer living in the USA. I once lived in Hattiesburg and we were forever taking off to explore the back roads and there are so many sites to see in that area.. I still love , love, traveling on the back roads, and continue to do in Honduras.. Continue on with your exploring the fascinating back roads of Mississippi, Louisiana and South & North Carolina have some great waterfalls to explore..
Thanks for sharing your thoughts about our Mississippi posts, Lynda! I did read about the Windsor Ruins steps being moved to Alcorn. I wish I had known before I traveled through the campus to Rodney. I also heard about the drawing of Windsor Ruins having been found. How cool that you live in Honduras! I have not yet travelled there, but I have lived in Latin America, in Mexico, Chile, and Paraguay as a child of missionary parents. I am also a huge waterfall chaser, and you might be interested in some of our waterfall posts. Great to be connected with another lover of the backroads!
Enjoyed the blogs and photos of the falls of Georgia, will be the area soon to enjoy some Carolina falls. How interesting you lived in those countries.. I don’t know them, but have traveled to Peru and Guatemala and love both.. I am sure I will enjoy s being a small part of your backroads travels through your blogs.. Thanks for sharing them in such a realistic way.. Keep the car full of gas always.
Glad you got to check out some of our other posts, Lynda! It is a pleasure to connect with you here, and perhaps someday our paths will cross near a waterfall on the backroads.
We are planning a trip from New Orleans to Natchez to Vicksburg this Fall and will use all the suggestions in several of your posts. We love history and back roads so your plan is perfect for us. So glad I found your blog from Rhoda’ s Southern Hospitality. Thanks so much, Howard!
How cool that you found Backroad Planet through Southern Hospitality, Margot! Rhoda is my first cousin, and I love her dearly! She has been a huge inspiration to me as a blogger. Please let us know if you have further questions while planning your fall trip.
Drove through the Natchez Trace Parkway in 2011 but didn’t go through these backroads. What a find in those Windsor Ruins!
It is amazing what you can find when you get off the main roads, Carol, but I still want to drive the entire Natchez Trace Parkway.
They say you should not judge a book by its cover and I would have never stopped at a place like Old Country Store, did not look very apetizing from the outside, but I would have missed out it seems!
It is true that rustic roadside dining is not for luxury tourists, Mar, but roadtrippers and history buffs love these kinds of places.
Hi Howard! I love how much history you were able to take in on this road trip. Especially at the Windsor Ruins. And I also love going to places that I’ve seen in movies, so I can appreciate how special this trip was for you.
The Windsor Ruins were a sight to see, Vicky and Buddy! You don’t expect to see huge columns standing in the middle of the forest.
What a satisfying road trip. I love wandering the smaller roads but you need time and companions who understand that. How lucky you were. Just love the old columns and that film clip too.
You are right about “time and companions,” Elaine! You would not want to explore locations like Rodney and Windsor Ruins with people who don’t get it.
This is the first time that I’ve heard of these places and it really looks like a great road trip to take! I haven’t been to the U.S. yet though but if I soon were, I’ll surely be taking note of this one! Thank you for sharing 😀
I would love to see your take on Rodney, Aileen, because I am such a fan of your work!
I find it fascinating how towns can just become ghost towns like that. You would have thought, that people would re-settle there or that the government invests some money into rejuvenating these places. Seems like such a waste to let it all go rotten, even though it is a nice playground for tourists.
Keen observation on both accounts, Tammy, although I am not sure the average tourist (meaning the theme park and resort crowd) would care much about a trip to Rodney. Ghost towns are, however, especially fascinating for a certain niche of travelers who are intrigued by history and abandoned structures.
This looks like a great road trip! The Windsor Ruins are pretty incredible! And with the offer of yummy fried chicken – where do I sign up?!
I have been to many ruins, Vicki, but there is something majestic about the Windsor Ruins. The pillars are so solid and tall.
The Natchez Trail not only takes you through the Deep South, it completely transports you to a different time. PS- I know have a huge craving for fried chicken!
I think you hit the nail on the head, Brianna! There is something intangible about the Natchez Trace that takes you to another time and place.
I have not been to this part of the United States but the parkway looks like a great place for a drive. As a photographer, my husband would also enjoy taking pictures of Rodney ghost town and the Windsor ruins. Of course, you already had me intrigued at the best friend chicken claim 🙂
I can relate to your husband, Christina. I love taking pictures of abandoned structures and ruins.
That sounds like a really interesting road trip! To start off, I’m from the south, so my mouth started to water as I saw your picture of the fried chicken. Yum! The Windsor Ruins and Rodney also seem super interesting. It just makes you think of how many cool places that you have around you, and don’t even realize.
No question we southerners love fried chicken, Natalie! I agree that we are surrounded by amazing destinations and often don’t even know, until we get out and ride the backroads.
Being I was born and spent 41 years of my life in Mississippi and I still call it home. And as I was reading over these great trips and sites that was Visited it makes me Proud to Call Mississippi home. I myself have always loved to travel the old back roads and stop at sites that was a place that made me think if these old walls, old roads could talk it would be a great to think what I would hear. I recall the old back roads of Holmes County and Attala Co where I found old churches and homes that never had power or water. I recall a Ole Timer stopped one day as I was looking at a big old house, he told me that this Old House was his Great Grandparents old home place. Before I could say I was sorry for being there he told me that this was called the Smiths Plantation. But he went on to say that it’s now called Smiths Farm and he said that I should go down the old road where I would cross a old wood bridge then about a half mile I would see a gate on the right. Being I had to go check it out he said for me to cross the gate walk about 300 yards from the road I would come up on something that I have never seen. Not telling me what I was going to find made me want to see this. Well after the walk I came up to something that I never seen. Cold water coming out of the ground and I thought to myself how did this pipe coming out of the ground come to be. After a few minutes I made my way back to the truck and I saw the man that I left at the old house. He said Son have you ever seen anything like that. I told him no sir but if I may ask how did the pipe come to be. He was smiling and laughing at me he said that his Great Grandfather found water shooting up from the ground and he drove the pipe into the ground and water has never stopped coming out of it. That was 35 years ago and when I get home to see family from time to time I have to go check it out. Mississippi is full of History and I guess you can say that I am proud to call it home.
Thanks for sharing your story, Ricky! I love Mississippi, too, because you can find so many unique sites on the backroads. Like you, I always wish the the walls could talk.
I’m from Natchez. Moved away long ago. If you’re ever in that area again, and you can handle the rigorous trek, you might want to look into Clark’s Creek. It’s west, nearly to Louisiana. It is a system of 7 waterfalls. You have to backtrack up some of the creeks to see them all. This is NOT a trip for the faint of heart as the trip back out is about 45 degrees. Happy hunting!
Oh, wow, Sandra! How did you know I am a waterfall chaser? This sounds like an incredible trip. We just canoed the Suwannee River scouting a double-decker waterfall. Unfortunately, the river was so high that it was only a single-decker. Thanks so much for sharing this. I will have to check it out!
HOW LONG IS THIS ROAD TRIP? PLEASE!
Hi Anitra! I drove the entire route including all the waypoints in one day, but you could spread it out over a couple of days for a more relaxing trip. 🙂
HOWARD, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR REPLY!!! We are hoping to pull it through in one day. We are just having trouble finding a way to locate a step by step map to get us through. Can you provide any guidance on how to locate one or is it something we have to put together ourselves.
Thanks again for your response
Hi Anitra! There is a turn-by-turn map of my route between Natchez and Vicksburg included near the bottom of the post.